Kroatien: Martinje - glada seder att döpa ungt vin

From the ripe grapes to the glass of delicious drink, wine undergoes a complete preparation cycle. Perhaps the most interesting, and certainly the most joyful stage of this journey, is Martinje.

Martinje is the custom of wine baptism, which has been celebrated since the 17th century in the northern parts of Croatia. In mid-November, a joyful crowd gathers in the vineyards of the host, and through a kind of ceremony, they take on the roles of judge, bishop, godmother, and godfather of the wine in order to conduct the baptism according to the protocol.

On this occasion, humorous "prayers" are said to invoke the god of wine, asking for an abundance of sausages, ribs, and other meat delicacies, along with liters of good wine, for the hosts in the coming year. Likewise, "prayers" are made to drive away empty vessels, broken jugs, frosts, and other misfortunes that could leave people hungry and thirsty. The entire baptism ceremony is, of course, accompanied by a rich feast that always includes traditional roasted goose.

The joyful wine baptism tradition is an ancient pagan custom revived by the priest Martin in the 4th century. As a great wine lover, he decided to popularize fine wine among the people he was close to. The Croatian name for this beloved custom – Martinje – is derived from his name. Another fun legend is connected to the Martinje customs. Namely, the traditional roasted goose on the table is there as a "punishment". Priest Martin did not want to become part of the high church hierarchy, so he hid in a bush before being declared bishop, and his hiding place was revealed by the honking of a goose.

Martinje is fully celebrated, with a costume ceremony, in smaller places in northern Croatia, but it is no less fun in urban areas, where different kinds of wine are offered at stands along with homemade sausages and music.